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When compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest place achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary triumph.